A space to linger

Saraswati is the Hindu goddess of knowledge, education and music amongst other things. This blog is a record of a Royal Roads University grad student’s solo trek through the world’s most intense subcontinent. From the tropics of Kerala to the Taj Mahal in Agra, follow my journey through India. Part travel journal, part itinerary memoir, my hope is that this record encourages more people to travel to India while providing some practical advice and personal observations along the way.

Enjoy, namasthe. And don't be put off by the occasional curse. It's f*cking India!

Sunday, January 8, 2012

The Human Connection

When I first arrived in India, I was focused on the place I was going. I highlighted monuments I wished to visit and states I was craving to explore. But in leaving India, it isn’t the Taj Mahal which stands out in my mind, or the diversity between the states I meandered through. It is the stories of the people whom I met during my travels that remind me of the precious moments in India where I felt the most inspired. 

My first friend in India, Hari, turned out to be a diamond in the rough. He was kind, and curious and forced me out of my comfort zone when I was jet-lagged and scared shitless. I remember the sound of his voice as he chided me on my menu choices, or the musicality of his laugh when we got our cross-cultural wires crossed. He showed me the gentle side to Indians. Pius, the owner of Adam’s Backpacker’s in Fort Cochin taught me about the authoritative Indian man and his interest in Western values vs. Indian. Through our conversations, I learned just how quickly a conversation can move from innocent to awkward at the first mention of anything sexual. Silvia and Javi, a Spanish couple I explored the tea hills with, showed me that authentic cultural experiences happen, more often than not, far away from major tourist destinations. I caught them in rare moments of public intimacy, being loving and supporting. These moments made me reflect on my own relationship and how it had lost that connection. 

In Varkala, I had an admirer named Libu. He was a young Indian working at a favourite restaurant, his lithe body leaning against the pillars as he gazed out over the Arabian Sea. He was shy, and didn’t speak until my third night when he picked a chicken flower for me and told me he felt very strongly that I was meant for him. He had such depth behind his eyes and if I could go back in time, I would kiss him. He showed me the romantic and poetic side to Indians. Shortly after, I received a ride to the train station by “Diddy”, a hip guesthouse owner who shared my love of kittens and fast driving. He wouldn’t accept payment, he said he just wanted to make sure I got there safe. Generousity and kindness are what I think of when I think of him now. Jaya was a woman who worked with Utthan, the NGO I visited. She had fierce eyes and didn’t smile easily in the company of men. But when I spoke to her out in the field, her eyes came alive with sparkles and she laughed and teased. I believe that Jaya had a hard life, and it’s difficult for her to be unguarded around men. She reminded me that women in India do not have the same rights or freedoms as I do. I felt blessed by every smile she shared.
Xabier, my Spanish travel companion, charmed an entire night bus full of Indians and tourists within minutes. His smile and beautiful nature drew people to him and I felt jealous because I felt that I couldn’t be so free as a woman traveling alone. But as we began traveling together, I began to know freedom. He afforded me the sense of security to be myself in India for the first time, and that was an amazing gift. Ashoke, our guide about all things India, had a dignified demeanor I instantly adored as well as a no-nonsense approach to understanding the history of India. When he spoke, everyone listened without breathing, that’s how poetic his speech was. It was an honour to learn from him. Delgit, a Vancouver-based film producer rocked my understanding of non-resident Indians. He broke every rule and made no apologies for it. He taught me to take advantage of every opportunity and to appreciate the many ways Indian culture is permeating Canada. Caromolina, an English girl I camel trekked through the Thar desert with, echoed my best friend’s quiet spirit and radiated kindness. With her there was an easy friendship, something I know is rare between girls. Daniel, everyone's favourite guy at 3M restaurant, who knew each of us by name and who shared his story and his music one balmy night in Goa. We couldn't have asked for a more beautiful and heart-felt send-off.

My cohort and professors, the people I learned with, laughed with, traded stories with, cried with and most of all loved with. Such a diverse group of people came together and not only got along, but treated one another with such respect. I learned an innumerable amount of things from each of these people. Too many to name here. But I am so thankful to have shared this experience with them. And last but certainly not least, Laura & Ruby, my two beautiful roommates in Ahmedabad and Goa. Two souls I was blessed to experience residency with, and whose friendship I treasure so much. With them I grew and was supported, and learned the value of listening and receiving love. Thank you Team Triple Threat.

Through these people, India became a home for me. Not just an exotic place I had to battle my way through, but a country full of friends and amazing shared experiences. I am incredibly lucky.

Namaste 

Baga Beach sunset. Just amazing

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